Tallship Soren Larsen

Arrival Sydney!

Thu, 17 Nov 2011 08:56:36 GMT

27 October 2011

Soren entering Sydney Heads -

Matt on the helm brings the ship into Sydney Harbour under pilot.

After some delays she proceeded to a berth at White Bay 3 for final AQIS clearance etc.

Two very fine vessels together -

Soren Larsen and Southern Swan / Svanan

Photos - thanks go to Clyde Dickens, Sydney

Passage to Sydney

Thu, 10 Nov 2011 06:03:12 GMT

V340 New Caledonia to Sydney 2011

Last Instalment - Marsha's Blogs Part 4-6

"We delayed dinner in order to go round Ball’s Pyramid. What a sight! While our cook Mary laughed at the scary faces she saw in the rock (goblins and ghosts apparently) the rest of us stood in awe as the tiny speck on the horizon grew into a huge spire sticking out of the ocean like a dark grey thorn. The sun set with luminous hues of red and purple and the stars came out in the hundreds. For a long time there was still a red glow on the horizon which made the rock stand out as we passed around it. Then the seas lit up. When a light was shown into the water, millions of shrimp sized creatures lit up in greens, blues and reds. I have never seen the sea so thick with phosphorescence and glowing blobs. As darkness finally crept in we got back into routine with the change of the watch a little past 8pm.

Reinhard is sitting across from me with his charts and weatherfaxes and computer and calculated we had just over 200nm till Sydney. Seems like a magical number to me.. "

Read the final blog - the passage into Sydney...

The Last Picture Show

Thu, 10 Nov 2011 05:53:31 GMT

The Last Picture Show - New Caledonia to Lord Howe and Sydney ..
Spectacular images of Lord Howe and Ball Pyramid - and arrival Port Jackson

See Gallery

Final voyage - south from Noumea

Thu, 10 Nov 2011 05:45:54 GMT

V340 New Caledonia to Sydney 2011

Marsha's Blogs Part 1-3

"Our final voyage of the season takes us from Noumea, New Caledonia to Sydney, Australia via Lord Howe Island. Joining us on this ocean passage are 8 faces mainly residing in Australia and New Zealand and one gentleman who designs racing sailboats in France.
We got underway after a few safety briefings and a nice salad lunch. We set sail just outside the harbour and sailed as far as the wind would take us before darkness set in. We toasted to the voyage with some real French Champagne, brought by Jean-Louis, as the sun set casting beautiful colours across the rolling seas.

The first night is always a good one. Much conversation is had getting to know one another and the sharing of stories about where we’ve each traveled to. After a quick snorkel from the beach the next morning we sailed off the hook and heaved to (and fro) in between islands and reefs. It was a good sail and we ended up at Îlot du Phare Amédée. The stark contrast between the blue of the water and sky with the brilliant white lighthouse shooting up out of nowhere is just perfect.

Picture Perfect Pacifique - V339 Images

Sun, 30 Oct 2011 01:59:47 GMT

V339 Image Gallery Vanuatu to New Caledonia 2011

Pictures to dream over - Port Vila to Tanna and on the Noumea Grand Lagoon, New Caldeonia.

It looks a square life on a hard rigger..

Twas a dark n stormy night, etc.. V339 Pt3

Sun, 30 Oct 2011 01:58:08 GMT

V339 Vanuatu to New Caledonia 2011- Marsha's Vlog Pt.3

"There is nothing more dramatic than plunging through the South Pacific on an old wooden square-rigger during an intense thunder and lightning storm. The 12 - 4 watch got to experience such a scene (and a few of us who woke up during the downpour) last night. Big fat blobs of water fell from the sky at an alarming rate as forks of lightning lit up the ominous clouds around us. The bright flashes were followed by the chest thumping sound of thunder.

As I ran around down below shutting hatches and sopping up rain water that had dripped onto the floor, the deck above me was alive with the sound of feet running back and forth taking in sails. Every now and then a bolt of lightning would strike the water near the ship and laughter and sounds of amazement rang out from above my head."

Volcano Wedding

Sun, 30 Oct 2011 01:37:45 GMT

V339 Vanuatu to New Caledonia 2011- Marsha's Vlog Part 2

At Tanna Island

"With a bit of Søren Larsen magic we pulled off a wedding, at sunset, at the top of a volcano while it spewing red hot lava high into the sky.

Captain Matt officiated the ceremony as the sun set behind the happy couple. The volcano took it’s cues perfectly sending molten lava and ash into the sky at the correct moments. Next they exchanged beautifully written vows (there may have been a tear or two) as the sun started to dip below the crest of the crater. The groom got a bit carried away and asked to kiss the bride before the rings were exchanged.

It was a great moment! Matt then gave a small speech and then the rings, made from pieces of wire from the ship, were exchanged. Before much clapping, cheers, hugs and kisses we pulled out glasses and toasted to husband and wife with some champagne and a hip hip horray. It really was amazingly perfect."

V339 Part 1 Vila - Erromango

Sun, 30 Oct 2011 01:31:11 GMT

V339 Vanuatu to New Caledonia 2011- Marsha's Vlog No. 1

To the Skull Cave

"We ended up having to steam from Port Vila down to Erromongo. But it was pretty smooth and we didn’t get knocked around at all really. On arrival to Dillon’s Bay we, of course, met with the chief. Chief William and his son came aboard and took us over to a beautiful beach with excellent snorkelling.

Here we also found some caves. The caves were a steep climb up a cliff face and before entering, the chiefs son said a prayer to his ancestors. Once the prayer was done he removed the logs guarding the cave entrance. After a quick scramble and wiggle down inside we turned our torches (flashlights) on to discover the cave was littered with bones!. Human bones!..."

Meet the Small Nambas- Malakula

Sun, 30 Oct 2011 01:19:24 GMT

Vanuatu Discovery Pt 3 -

Santo to Vila - Marsha's Vlog at Malakula

After a good lunch onboard we ventured out into the rain for some Kastom Dancing. The people of Malekula are generally divided into two clans. The Big Nambas and Small Nambas. A Namba is the peculiar traditional dress that the men wear. It consists of a Pandanus Leaf wrapped around a certain body part then tucked into a belt of bark.

We were fortunate enough to witness the traditional dances of the men and women of a Small Nambas. I think the drumming is always my favourite part. The rhythm differs so much from what we hear in the western world. Each dance had it’s own meaning and it was impressive to see the varied age of the participants. From the oldest elders to the extremely young. All wore traditional dress and all sang out from the heart. At the end of the presentation we were each presented with a coconut. They were not the largest coconuts we’ve encountered but they were by far the fullest. The delicious water inside was just never ending! "

Santo to Vila Imagery V338 Gallery

Sun, 30 Oct 2011 01:15:14 GMT

V338 Image Gallery Vanuatu 2011

Santo to Port Vila - via Asanvari, Ambrym, Malakula and more

Image gallery from the ship - pictures of life in land far, far away.

Vanuatu Discovery Pt.2 String Band Inferno

Sat, 29 Oct 2011 12:28:27 GMT

Unlike all the other feasts we’ve done this one was different in that we packed everyone and everything (including the string band) right here on board the Søren Larsen. At midships a massive buffet was set up and a string band of 12 or 13 squeezed into a corner and started jamming away. On the aft deck beautiful carvings were set up and the bartering began. My bag is going to be SO heavy when it comes time to go home! At least half the village was on board and all of Isaiahs family. Laughter rang out and kept the whole island awake I‘m sure. Sione, our cook, is always the best dancer with his slick moves mixed with traditional island style dancing. Too hilarious. We danced and boogied till well after 9pm. As the tired volcano trekkers started to find their way to bed the string band found their way to the small boat and as Isaiah and Darren drove them home they played on into the darkness till we could no longer hear them. What a great night."

Banks Islands Gallery

Sat, 29 Oct 2011 12:22:53 GMT

Vanuatu Blog V337

Banks Islands Gallery -

Images of our voyage round the northern islands of Vanuatu
and some our our favourites peoples and places.

Vanuatu Discovery - 1) Sailing Santo

Sat, 29 Oct 2011 12:10:21 GMT

Vanuatu Blog

Santo to Port Vila 01

"Embarking on a new journey is always exciting. Especially when it’s a beautiful sunny day and there is a nice fresh breeze. We left Luganville and the island of Espiritu Santo for the last time with 18 new voyage crew and some new crew.

One of our first stops was the village of Asanvari. We were given a very warm welcome. A small trek through the forest and along the rocky coastline led us to a beautiful waterfall cascading over black volcanic rock. It was a bit on the refreshing side of cool but we could have stayed there for hours.

The snorkelling here was great! Not so much in the way of coral but the volcanic shores gave way to interesting caverns and canyons to explore with tons of fish! Three big rays were spotted and a turtle or two..."

Sydney - almost there

Wed, 26 Oct 2011 12:30:08 GMT

Arrival Sydney

Captain Matt Chapman reports -
"From Matt @ 1730 today 27 Oct 2011:
33 46s 152 25e 8.4kts 270t SE20 kts - great sailing all day just reducing sail to slow for a 1000 arrival at Sydney Heads tommorrow."

The ship will then take 2 hours transiting Sydney Harbour and will go to White Bay berth 3.

+++

Note - Ian's laptop finally back from the repairers, with a replacement hard drive and with programs now reloaded we can resume posting outstanding Voyage Logs here.
Apologies for the break in transmission.

Inside the Volcano - Ureparapara

Wed, 05 Oct 2011 05:38:59 GMT

As we went ashore in Ureparapara, Liz said something that struck me. She said ‘You know every time we come ashore it’s like stepping into a National Geographic Magazine.” And it’s true. Each time we slip into the water it’s like a nature documentary (I swear I can hear David Attenborough narrating) and each time we enter a village it’s like an untouched land, each totally different from the last.

The anchorage in Ureparapara is possibly the coolest we‘ve been to. It’s inside the crater of a volcano. On every side we’re surrounded by steep, black cliffs covered in a thick carpet of green. The crater abruptly drops into the sea at one side with a small opening for us to sail through. The sandy beaches here are mostly black lava worn down over years and years covered with a thin layer of that picturesque white sand created from coral.

Snake Dancers of Rah

Fri, 30 Sep 2011 03:19:17 GMT

V337 Banks IslandsVanuatu - Santo and Ra

Down the beach came first the singers and drummers. Next came the dancers painted black with white stripes. They held a large leaf in their mouths and wore a crown almost like a nest on their heads. Around their mid-sections they wore a sort of woven underwear and had many anklets and bells. In their hands were long thin branches with feathers and orange pom poms.

The dance was amazing. It represents the highly venomous sea snakes that are found in great numbers here in Vanuatu. Just off the beach from where the dance takes place every year there is a tiny island with two single palm trees on it. When the tide is high sea snakes can be found in abundance here.

The drummers beat wildly on their hunks of hollowed out wood and the chanters go faster and faster.

Vanuatu - Kids welcome

Fri, 30 Sep 2011 01:34:50 GMT

V336 in Vanuatu

When Søren Larsen left Auckland at the beginning of May we took with us some special cargo. Until now it has been moved around from cabin to cabin, storage spot to cubby hole and finally resting on the deckhouse roof under tight tarpaulin to protect it from the weather. Finally after months and months it was time to discharge this cargo. We anchored in Uliveo in the Maskelyne Islands, Vanuatu on a Friday to much racket and welcome. We heard quite a lot of noise coming from the mangroves along the shore. ‘What weird birds they have here‘, we all thought. That’s when we started to see dozens of brightly coloured t-shirts climbing through the thin branches. The mangroves were covered with school children hooting and hollering, cheering and singing. We like to think it was to welcome us instead of trying to scare us off. Pretty soon half a dozen out-rigger canoes were circling the ship.

First Arrival Vanuatu

Sat, 10 Sep 2011 12:07:52 GMT

V336 - Arrival Vanuatu - Marsha's first day in Pt Vila

This is Bislama for ‘Number One’ of course. Bislama is a strange mix of English, French and a dash of island language thrown in for good measure. Sort of a pidgin English if you will. There are over 110 ‘mother tongues’ in common use in Vanuatu. It’s spelt as it sounds… sort of…

Hello = Halo
Good Morning = Gudmoning
Good night = Gudnaet
Please = Plis
Thanks you = Tankyu Tumas
You’re welcome = I oraet nomo
Excuse me = Skiusmi
I’m Sorry = Mi sori tumas
How are you? = Yu oreat?
I’m fine, thanks = Mi orate, tankyu/ I gud nomo

It’s fun to walk around Port Vila trying to read signs in store fronts which look like an alien language but are actually almost English.

Yasawa Islands of Fiji

Fri, 02 Sep 2011 03:18:13 GMT

V336 - Lautoka and the Yasawa Islands, Fiji # 1

This just in - from Marsha:

"BULA!
We’ve left the hustle and bustle of busy Lautoka, Fiji behind us and are on our way to Vanuatu. As I write this we’re about 48 hours out of Port Villa, Vanuatu. The wind is coming and going and we keep going from 2 knots up to 7 and back to 2 again. The ship is rocking and rolling quite a bit and it’s taking some people a little while to find their sea legs.

One of our favourite stops was Waya Island. We visited the island the week before on our last voyage and discovered a truly hidden gem of the Yasawa island group in Fiji. We worked out a deal with this village. They were in need of some cement for a floor for their community center/ school and we were looking for a good time. We delivered twenty three 50kg bags of cement to the village in exchange for a feast! Getting the goods on board in Lautoka was no easy feat. "

Action Replay - Slideshow V335

Sun, 21 Aug 2011 08:26:23 GMT

A humpback whale comes over to say hello - More stunning pictures just in from Tonga and Fiji - see the Slideshow here.